Preparing and planting your perennial border

Are you going to plant a new border? Then thorough preparation is very important.

Depending on the existing situation and the target image, specific measures may be required.

Feel free to ask about this when requesting a quote.

Soil sample analysis

Not sure which soil you are dealing with? Do you doubt whether all nutrients are sufficiently present?

Then we recommend having a soil sample analysed before planting/creating. The chemical composition of the soil - together with its structure and soil life - will determine whether a soil is suitable for a certain type of planting.

We work with Intergrow, they will perform the analysis specifically for our perennials.

You can request an analysis via this link. (Dutch)

Soil preparation

Clear soil of root weeds such as horsetail, hedge bindweed,...

Loosen soil well: air is one of the most important requirements for good root growth

Embed and cover with stable materials such as gravel, sand, pebbles, dolomite or lava, only if necessary.

Possibly add certain nutrients to the soil, make it more acidic or calcareous if soil analysis shows this to be necessary.

Planting: depth and distance

Planting with or without our planter? It is important that the root ball of the plant is about 1cm below the soil or mulching. If the root ball sticks out above it, you haven't planted deep enough.

How far apart should the plants be?

 If we have drawn up a plan for you, you will find this on the documents. You will usually see the correct number of plants in each planting area on the plan immediately, or we state the plant density in the legend.

Did you choose the plants and quantities yourself? Then be sure to consult our plant sheets via the online catalogue. There you will find all the necessary information.

Planting period

Always dependent on weather conditions! In doubt about planting? Feel free to ask us for advice.

·         Spring

·         Autumn

Mulching with cover materials?

An inert cover is not necessary, but it offers advantages. In a sustainable planting that can remain undisturbed for years, a labour-saving cover is worthwhile.

After planting: maintenance and aftercare

Once you have planted everything, the plants can start growing.

Some plant species grow faster than others, they will not all have reached their ‘mature’ shape at the same time.

So don't worry if not all plants shoot up right away. Some plants put all their energy into root growth first and only start growing above ground afterwards.

Not all plants will flower in the first year either.

In other words, give the plants time to make this new start at their own pace.

From the first year onwards, however, it is important to start proper maintenance right away.

Mowing and removing clippings

Mowing should be done for plants that are deciduous.

Do you also have evergreen plants? These should generally not be mowed.

This mowing is best done after the winter, in February.

- MOWING

Mowing is best done during the winter period, after the frost.

So when exactly? This depends on the weather and the use of flower bulbs.

If you don't have flower bulbs, you can wait until the end of February.

Do you have bulbs? Then it is better to prune at the end of January or the beginning of February.

Are bulbs already visible? Then try to step on as few bulbs as possible while mowing.

Height of mowing: When pruning, cut as short as possible above the cover and/or bulbs.
If you do have to leave some of the plants, we will mention this in the plant sheet (online catalogue) under ‘garden tips’ or in the photo frame you receive with your design.

You can use a brushcutter (not in combination with lava), motor/electric hedge shears, manual hedge trimmers, pruning shears or scythes.

- REMOVAL OF CLIPPINGS

with a pitchfork, leaf rake.

- BLOWING CLEAN

To avoid obtaining a germination bed for wind-spreading weeds through a layer of fine plant material, use a leaf blower to clean the entire area.

For this, you will need a leaf blower, shovel, leaf rake and brush.

When you have mulching make sure you recover all plants after blowing.

Fertilisers

We advise not to fertilise or use lime (unless pre-determined after a soil analysis).

However, you can fertilise flower bulbs lightly (locally) with an organic fertiliser type DCM 2.

Do this in early spring, during or just before a rain shower. This allows the nutrients to dissolve into the soil immediately.

If you notice that growth or flowering is lacking, we recommend having a soil sample analysed first, so you can start ‘improving’ correctly.

Weeds

Immediately after mowing, you can do another round for weeds.

Pay special attention to weeds in the heart of the plants.

Note: If you have a covering layer, smoothen it  out nicely and make sure the substrate is not exposed.

Monthly maintenance

March - December

Weeding

Tip: Heavily germinating young weeds can be hoed and left in place.

Preferably do this in warm and windy weather.

Weeding once a month is a minimum. This will rule out the possibility of weeds settling in the garden. If maintenance is carried out consistently, these weeding sessions are short.

August:

Now we will also look at the shape of the plants and the planting as a whole and take action if necessary: tidying.

Pay particular attention to any fallen plants and/or spent bulbs. Fallen plants are either supported or cut back. This may be necessary especially in the first few years until the soil is impoverished, when the plants remain much firmer. Bulbous plants such as Allium that do not stand vertically and have finished flowering are removed (note: only remove what has already dried out completely. Any green foliage should be left until it too has dried out).

Small early-flowering bulbous plants are not removed because they will be overgrown by grasses and perennials.

Trim edges and/or pathways. Passage paths and plants overhanging too far along driveways etc are removed now.